“Ireland is Magical”

Friday Sept 29

My longtime friend from BC High, Jesse MacDonald, sent me a note after I posted a band playing in the street in Galway last night. That band was just one of the many experiences that confirmed the ‘Ireland is Magical’ theory with me. I have heard that theory many times over the years, but as Jesse continued ‘It doesn’t make sense to hear that until you’re there’, and I now subscribe to that notion ten times over. Yesterday was nothing short of BREATHTAKING for me. I booked a tour to check out The Aran Islands, The Cliffs of Moher and a quick stop for lunch in Doolin. I found the tour on http://www.viator.com…a site that offers up an array of fun tours and activities. I used them to book a horseback riding tour in Killarney in a couple of days. I recommend them highly.

Back to yesterday’s life changing experience. A couple of weeks ago, I put it out to the world on the Facebook that I was looking for suggestions for a solo trip to Ireland. One friend suggested I HAD to go to the Aran Islands; I had never heard of the Aran Islands, but I am glad he introduced me to it.

It was about a 90 minute bus right to get from Galway to just past Doolin, where we hopped on a ferry (not like a MV or Nantucket ferry: think Whale Watch boat) to go to Inisheer – the smallest of the three Aran Islands. The ferry ride took 15 minutes or so, and you get the treat of admiring the Cliffs of Moher from afar as we go. Once on the island, we had 90 minutes or so to explore. I elected to rent an e-bike to zip around the island and check things out. A couple of things about Inisheer:
• It is roughly 1.8 miles x 1.2 miles
• There are roughly 300 people that live on the island
• There is a school, a hotel, a pub, a runway and rock walls. LOTS of rock walls.

I was told that the rock walls were built up around the island because most of the land was cover with this stone, and the people living there needed to do something with the stone in order to cultivate the land. It is quite magnificent.

As soon as I got back to my hotel later that night, I found a video on YouTube that is a drone tour of the Island. I highly recommend watching this 2+ min video. It really gives a great view of this beautiful island.
ARAN ISLAND DRONE VIDEO TOUR

The Cliffs of Moher

Breathtaking is really the only word I can come up with to describe this truly magical spot. At over 800 feet tall at its highest point, it is hard to understand this natural wonder. The cliffs are truly majestic, and the pictures don’t do it justice. The sun was OUT yesterday, and it was BRIGHT! A brightness that maybe we aren’t used to in the States, due to fog and air pollution, but my sunglasses weren’t really helping with the piercing sun! Scenes from one of the Harry Potter movies was filmed here at the Cliffs. Finally, a couple that was sitting behind me on the bus got engaged on top of the cliffs! A day they will never forget, I’m sure. I didn’t get engaged up there yesterday, but it will be a day I don’t soon forget either!

The Galway Nightlife

I had heard all about the exciting Galway Nightlife all the way back in college when I was studying abroad in London. Friends gave me recommendations of pubs and restaurants that I need to check out, and the nightlife experience have lived up to all of my expectations. Everyone was just having a great time. There was this ‘joie de vivre’ in The Latin Quarter that I can’t remember experiencing anywhere else! No one was pissed off and angry like you see in Boston (for sure) and other places in the States. I ended up in one of the recommended pubs, Tig Coili…and it was exactly what I was looking to experience.

Tig Coili

The owners of this charming little pub in the heart of The Latin Quarter call it ‘a country pub, in the middle of the city.’ They have ‘Music Sessions’ on a nightly basis and it was everything that I had hoped to experience. These music sessions are basically just jame sessions. Musicians will just come in, without previously making plans to do so, and just sit in and jam with the other musicians that are already there. They set up shop in the ‘Nook’ in the front of the pub, and just play and play and play. It is absolutely brilliant. Check out the Tig Coili website HERE.

The Nook at Tig Coili

Funny story from the pub: I sat down next to a guy who was clearly a fellow American. His wife was back at the hotel and he was just enjoying a couple of pints out on the town. He and I started talking: He was from from Upstate New York and worked in marketing for years. He and I had played a bunch of the same golf courses, so there as an immediate connection. I told him I was from Boston. That’s it. His next question:


”Did you got to Trinity College?” (Hartford, not Dublin)

I told him I did. He then asked me if I knew Jay Monahan (The head of the PGA Tour) and Billy Hogan (The top guy for Liverpool Football Club). Mind officially blown! He told me he worked with both of those guys years ago when his company was a major sponsor for PGA Tour events. It is a SMALL world! My mom would have been tickled to hear that story! When I moved to Kentucky way back int he day, she said she was never worried that I would be lonely in a new place, because as she said ‘you’ll just meet someone over a beer somewhere, and you’ll be fine.’ And that is exactly what happened in Hopkinsville, and it happened again last night in Galway. Fun stuff!

Clearly the band wasn’t as impressed with me as I was with them!

Saturday’s Plan

No real plans in the books for today. Just going to wander around and see some sights. There is a Hurling match later this afternoon that I might go check out. There is a Pizza Place called The Dough Bros that apparently was named the 16th best pizza in THE WORLD! Between, Santarps, Regina’s and Papa Ginos (I’m being serious) in Boston, I will be the judge to see if this Dough Bros place is worthy of the 16th best pizza in the world. I will report back tomorrow!

Hey Galway! Nice to meet you!

High St – Galway

Thursday September 19th

I arrived in Shannon around 5:30 in the morning on Thursday. The flight itself was very nice, exceptional service from Aer Lingus. Being in Business Class certainly makes this a lot more comfortable. The flight itself was only six hours or so. I think you either have to try and sleep the whole time, or enjoy the food and movies…but it’s kind of tough to try and do both. After a bus ride to Galway, I was exhausted when I got to my hotel to drop off my bags. All I wanted was to take a quick nap, but my room would not be available until the afternoon. So I walked around this quaint city for several hours and sat down a couple of times for much needed caffeine. The city was bustling early, with students racing to class, and pubs opening up for what would be a busy day thanks to gorgeous weather! I had a food tour scheduled for 2:30 in the afternoon, so I was basically just trying to kill time.

The Food Tour: WOW!

I had some help planning this trip by a college friend of mine, Jonathan ‘Bamako’ Epstein, the owner of an amazing travel company called Celebrated Experiences, based out of Atlanta. I didn’t take advantage of all of their offerings, but they have already made a huge impact on my trip. They arranged for a private food tour of Galway and it was absolutely amazing! I would recommend Galway Food Tours to everyone! A lovely young woman guided me through 5 stops throughout the Latin Quarter and it was fantastic. From locally caught trout, to whiskey, coffee and ice cream, it was a great way to start the trip. Here is where we went:

Ruibin

McCambridges Market

I’m not a whiskey drinker, but they were pretty good. They also provided some local cheeses and meats, all of which were amazing. I learned that the Irish culinary scene is alive and well, and relatively new! Native Irish have spent time abroad then have come back to take what they have learned in their homeland.

Little Lane Coffee Company

Again, I am not a coffee drinker, but they had some great coffee. It is a wife & husband team that own the shop and they are REALLY passionate bout their coffee…going to great lengths to offer up beans that are far superior to their competitors at a similar price.

Ean

From the Gaelic word for bird, this Spanish inspired bakery, restaurant and restaurant is a cozy little spot with BIG flavors! They offered up two small dishes that I probably would not have ordered if I were there on my own. I can’t even describe one of the plates, but the second one was a taster that include an anchovie, an olive and a jalapeño pepper and WOW was there some flavor. Add in a great Spanish glass of wine, and this was a great stop on the tour.

Murphy’s Ice Cream

Murphy’s Ice Cream

Anyone that has had an ice cream with me, knows that I am pretty basic and usually order the same flavor from my all-time fave spot, The Ice Creamsmith. I tasted the Dingle Sea Salt and eventually had a scoop of the Fresh Irish Strawberry and they were both tremdous. Rest assured, I will be back there again to try out a couple other flavors! What flavor would you pick? (Answer below in Comments Section!)

Of course I had to grab a couple of pints on day 1, and they were as good as I imagined they would be! I stopped by The Kings Head pub on High Street. Apparently the Kings head is only 800 years old, so they know a thing or two about thirsty visitors. I reckon I will stop by for another pint before I leave on Sunday AM.

My Favorite Thing of the Day
(Really my 2nd favorite thing) The food tour was clearly the favorite part of my day on Thursday. I loved the bustle of the streets in the Latin Quarter. The sun was out, so people (and plenty of tourists) were sitting outside of the ubiquitous pubs in the city, having a coffee, a pint, a butt or all of the above. I was tickled by how many street musicians there were in the neighborhood. It seemed like there was someone playing the guitar every hundred yards (meters) or so. Young kids, old timers. They just added a really nice soundtrack to the hum of the busy streets.

Etc

After a VERY long day…I called it a night early and hit the sack. It was a fantastic first day and have already fallen in love with this charming little city. Frida’s agenda includes a boat cruise to check out the Cliffs of Moher, the Aran Islands and lunch in the sea side town of Doolin. Stay Tune! Have a great Friday!

2 responses to “Hey Galway! Nice to meet you!”

  1. kellydayroberts Avatar
    kellydayroberts

    Pete – You definitely have to go to The King’s Head for a pint on Sunday before you leave. They have an incredible (and very long-running) jazz session on Sundays.

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  2. Tim Guiney Avatar
    Tim Guiney

    Sounds like a great introduction! There is no doubt that Irish cuisine has radically improved over the last 50 years or so with, as you say, a lot of European influence. I could go for the Dingle Sea Salt

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